Here are some suggestions on how to conserve water outside:
Don’t drown your lawn: Avoid over-watering lawns and gardens. Water deeply, less often.

Watch the clock: Water between 6:00 p.m. and 10:00 a.m. when the sun is low, winds are calm, and temperatures are cool to avoid evaporation.

Raise the blade: Trim grass at a higher mower setting — at least 2½ to 3 inches.

Check your sprinkler heads: At least once a month, check your sprinkler heads to make sure everything is working properly.

Play the zone: Divide your yard and landscaping into separate irrigation zones so grass can be watered separately and more frequently than groundcovers, shrubs, and trees.

You can never have too much mulch: Mulching around plants helps keep moisture in.

Aerate: Aerate in the spring and in the fall.

Fertilize: Use less nitrogen, and use a slow release application. Use formulas with higher phosphorous and potassium (like a winterizer fertilizer)

Be rain smart: Adjust your irrigation system as the seasons and weather change. Don’t water right after a heavy rain.

Update irrigation sprays: Using the lated in rotor nozzles can help prevent water run off and put more water on the lawn.

Smart controls: Using smart control on your system can save huge amounts of water. They can shut the system down in heavy rain falls, high winds and even control the system durning high evaporation days.

Polymers: The latest in water saving technologies are high tech polymers that help maintain water evaporation from the soil and allow the water you put in the soil be release slowly over time. This can reduce water usage by more than 50%.

Feel free to contact Blooming Idiot for a free evaluation of your current Englewood, Greenwood Village, Lone Tree, Castle Rock irrigation system and see how we can help you save water usage and maintain a beautiful lawn.

Pick up a bag of fertilizer on sale. Good job. You saved some money!
Or did you…
How can you tell if you got your money’s worth? There is such a broad range of prices when you look at the fertilizer options.
What exactly did you buy, and what is its best use?

You want a good dollar value. You also want the product that will produce the best results. Understand the significance of fertilizer numbers, or N-P-K ratios, and you can have both.

A bag of fertilizer on the garden department shelf is a marketing masterpiece. Each brand promises to be the perfect match for your lawn.

Contrast that with a bag that the professionals buy. Plain and simple. It gives a formula (the fertilizer numbers) and a list of ingredients. Is that enough to make a decision? Yes… if you know what you’re looking for.

What is N-P-K, And Their Role In Fertilizer?

All fertilizers use a three number rating system, like 15-15-15, or 21-7-14. The first number represents Nitrogen, the second is Phosphorous, the third is Potassium (or Potash). These numbers are percentages of the total ingredients in the bag. (In case you forget the order, the words are alphabetical!)

Want to sound like a pro? The chemical notations of these elements are N-P-K, a very official designation for fertilizer numbers. Use this term when you shop and impress someone!

Triple 15 (15-15-15) has equal amounts of each of these nutrients, or 15% of each. (Triple 16 is almost identical.)

This is how fertilizer ratios work. As an example, use fertilizer numbers with an NPK rating of 21-7-14. Nitrogen has the highest concentration. It is 3 times the amount of phosphorous. Phosphorous is only half of the Potassium amount. Technically, this would be called a 3-1-2 ratio.

A math teacher might try to give you a real life algebra lesson at this point, but let’s not go there. Instead, use this simple trick that will help you identify the proper blend each time you need to buy lawn fertilizer.

Look at any set of fertilizer ratios on a label. Notice how the numbers relate to each other by size:

21-7-14 is Big – Small – Medium
21-3-3 is Big – Small – Small
6-20-20 is Small – Big – Big
21-0-0 is Big – Zero – Zero

The N-P-K rating you want for grass typically is
Big – Small – Small. If you follow this, you see that grass needs a lot of Nitrogen and a little bit of the other stuff. That’s the essential part. If you’re willing to learn about what these nutrients do, you can vary your selection based on your specific lawn situation.

Why Do The Fertilizer Numbers Matter?

A brief description of each major nutrient will show why grass has its own preference for fertilizer.

Nitrogen:

essential for growth of foliage;
produces lush, tender, green leaves (or grass blades);
deficiency results in a yellow-green color (chlorosis) and little or no growth;
is easily flushed through the soil.
Phosphorous:
stimulates root growth;
hastens the maturity of plants;
promotes development of flowers, fruits, seeds;
deficiency can result in slow or stunted growth and purplish discoloration on leaves;
remains in the soil quite well.
Potassium:
gives vigor to tolerate changing weather conditions;
helps resist disease;
assists in the food manufacturing process;
strengthens cell wall structure for strong stems;
deficiency can cause week stems and slow growth;
leaches from the soil, not so fast as nitrogen.

How Can This Save You Money?

Look at the current status of your lawn.

An established lawn needs primarily nitrogen, since it is not producing any fruit or flowers = Big – Small – Small. Nitrogen is the least expensive of the nutrients. Don’t buy a formula that has high phosphorous or potassium when you don’t need them.

A new lawn needs more phosphorous to produce roots. Don’t use high nitrogen because the roots are not ready to handle top growth. So use Small – Big – Big. Phosphorous and potassium are more costly, so you would not use this all the time.

Investing in the more expensive list of ingredients for a new or damaged lawn is wise. Be safe when you fertilize new sod! You’ll save the expense of doing it over if you kill the young lawn with the wrong blend. Avoid stress and later expensive problems by helping the grass mature properly.

A stressed lawn (preparing for winter or extreme heat) needs more potassium. (Big – Small – Medium) or (Big – Small – Big)
When the grass has stressful conditions to deal with, applying the more expensive potassium can prevent problems from developing or continuing. Pay now and don’t pay later.

If the fertilizer with higher numbers in the ratio is on sale, you can apply it, knowing you got a good deal. Be cautious though, about applying high phosphorous continually to a lawn area. Mature grass doesn’t need it, and the environment doesn’t either.

(Side-note: Some states restrict or eliminate the application of phosphorous on lawns, to decrease pollution from run-off. A new lawn may be exempt from restriction. Check with your local agencies.)

Is The Fertilizer Number Ratio All That Matters?

The nutrient ratio is easy to look at. It can help you decide quickly to consider or eliminate certain fertilizer blends. It is not the only factor deserving of your attention. Consider learning about the ingredient source that provides the NPK.

Snow does trees good!

Colorado winters frequently give us blue-skies and sunshine breaks between storms, so the snow actually has a chance to disappear.

But I’ll stop whining now, and look on the bright side, and there definitely is one! Moisture!! And lots of it out of this last storm. Officially, snowfall is measured near DIA, which reported 15 inches of snow from last weekend’s storm. The National Weather folks say there was .8″ of moisture in those 15 inches of snow.

So those of us who were shoveling out 22 inches and more must have received over an inch of moisture, right? Just knowing that makes me feel better about my three hours of shoveling and snow blowing. (And truth be told, I’m still not done.)

Winter water is a big deal?

You bet!  Water in winter is a very big deal if you’re a landscape plant in a semi-arid place like Colorado.

A lot of people seem to think that when plants go dormant in the fall, they basically take a full “time out!” Not so. The visible portions of the tree or shrub may seem to be frozen in time. But the parts of the plant you can’t see, the roots, are still on duty, collecting whatever moisture they can find
and “delivering” it up into the plant on warm days.

So when we get a nice, soaking snow like this past storm gave us, I should be doing more cartwheels than complaining. Then again, you haven’t seen my cartwheels

Those tricky trees

I’m convinced that trees have a vindictive streak. If a tree doesn’t get enough water during winter, some (or all) of the roots will die. This is especially true of younger trees, those planted during the past few seasons. But the damage to the roots may not show up right away.

Spring rolls around and the tree leafs out and looks vigorous and healthy, using food and energy stored up last season. But it’s a trick! When the heat of summer moves in, and the tree is calling for more water, the root system can’t deliver. Too much of it dried out and died last winter. The tree’s leaves may suddenly discolor or start to dry up and fall off. “Winter dessication” is the technical name for it. I’m cutting to the chase, and just saying the roots dried up and died.

Roots don’t have to die!

The general rule of thumb for winter watering is this: If your landscape hasn’t received about an inch of moisture in the past four weeks, get ready to drag around some hoses on a warm winter day when the ground isn’t frozen. (Don’t use the sprinkler system unless you want to blow it out again.)

For young trees and shrubs, set the sprinkler or hose over the outer edges of the root system. The root ball will still be fairly small. Don’t water right at the very base of the tree or shrub. That’s not where the roots are.

For older trees and shrubs, put the water down in a zig-zag pattern just inside the outermost point of the branches, what’s called the “drip line.”

Make sure you finish that day’s watering in time for the moisture to soak in before freezing temperatures return. We’re not trying to make a skating rink.

If trees or shrubs do show winter damage once summer’s heat sets in, begin to water them appropriately for their type of tree or shrub, its age, size, and location. Over-watering at that point will only make things worse.

Don’t cheat the lawn!

Lawns routinely show winter damage once spring rolls around. Turf on south and southwest exposures, and turf grown on a slope, can be especially challenging. Again, a hose…. a sprinkler…a warm morning… You get the idea.

If you do this one thing….

If you can push yourself (or your kids) to winter water during dry spells, it can be one of the best things you can do for your landscape. Really!
If it helps, think of it in terms of dollars: trees and shrubs that go into spring strong and healthy, thanks to winter watering, are trees and shrubs you won’t have to pay to replace.

There are many suggestions out there to help you save water on your lawn. Here are our recommendations that could save you 50-70% on you water usage for irrigation.

Hunter Pro-C Controller

Controller/Timer

It is time to change that outdated timer/controller for your irrigation system. Your old controller could be watering too much or too little due to not being programmed correctly. Many think you can program the controller at the beginning of the season and leave it all season long not be more wrong. This does nothing but waste water and stress your lawn. The controller needs to be constantly adjusted on a regular basis to optimize the water usage. Ask us about upgrading you system today.

Hunter MP Rotors

Sprinkler Nozzle

“All sprinkler nozzles are the same, just the cheap ones from Home Depot”. This is so wrong, I can not even begin to tell you how wrong this is. The new nozzles on the market like Hunter’s MP Rotors can save you 20-30% of your water usage. They have tighter water streams and larger water droplets. This will allow for more water on your lawn and less water being blown off by wind and run off. Take a drive around your neighborhood and look at the amount of water that is running down the storm drain from irrigation systems.

Polymer Moisture Control

Save huge on your irrigation water usage from 50-70% for your Castle Rock, Castle Pine Village, Lone Tree or Parker lawn. It is low cost and last 5-7 years. Here at Blooming Idiot Lawn Care we understand the importance of saving money on your water bill for irrigation. Save huge on your irrigation water usage from 50-70% for your Castle Rock, Castle Pine Village, Lone Tree or Parker lawn. It is low cost and last 5-7 years. Here at Blooming Idiot Lawn Care we understand the importance of saving money on your water bill for irrigation.

Save Water and Money

We use a premier moisture retention product that will save you, not only time and energy, but water and money! Our polymer is the same product used on Coors Field. Our polymer is a super absorbent sand under a patented process, whose advanced technology greatly enhances water holding capacity, improves aeration results, prevents soil erosion, enhances top growth, lowers frequency of watering and irrigation, and is biodegradable and non-toxic.

The massive investment needed for buried drinking water infrastructure in the United States totals more than $1 trillion between now and 2035.

The need will double from roughly $13 billion a year today to almost $30 billion (in 2010 dollars) annually by the 2040s, and the cost will be met primarily through higher water bills and local fees, according to a new AWWA report.

“Buried No Longer: Confronting America’s Water Infrastructure Challenge” is a call to action for utilities, consumers and policy makers and recognizes that the need to replace pipe in the ground “puts a growing stress on communities that will continue to increase for decades to come.”

The new report includes more than 35 tables and graphs detailing information by region and utility size.

Key findings in “Buried No Longer” include

• The needs are large. The cost of replacing pipes at the end of their useful lives will total more than $1 trillion nationwide between 2011 and 2035 and exceed $1.7 trillion by 2050.
• Household water bills will go up. Although water bills will vary by community size and geographic region, for some communities the infrastructure costs alone could triple the size of a typical family's bill.
• There are important regional differences. The growing national needs affects different regions in different ways, with growth concerns greater in the South and West and replacement concerns greater in the Northeast and Midwest.
• There are important differences based on system size. As with many other costs, small communities with fewer people to share in the costs face the biggest challenge.
• The costs keep coming. Infrastructure renewal investments are likely to be incurred each year over several decades. For that reason, many utilities may choose to finance infrastructure replacement on a “pay-as-you-go” basis rather than through debt financing.
• Postponing investment only makes the problem worse. Postponing infrastructure investment in the near-term would raise the overall cost and increase the likelihood of water main breaks and other infrastructure failures.

Postponing infrastructure investment in the near-term raises the overall cost and increases the likelihood of water main breaks and other infrastructure failures. However, the $1 trillion investment necessary through 2035 does not have to be made all at once. There is time to implement asset management plans and set rates that more closely reflect the cost of water service.

“The needs uncovered in ‘Buried No Longer’ are large, but they are not insurmountable,” said AWWA Executive Director David LaFrance. “When you consider everything that tap water delivers — public health protection, fire protection, support for the economy, the quality of life we enjoy ” we owe it to future generations to confront the infrastructure challenge today.”

Read AWWA’s case for a Water Infrastructure Finance and Innovation Authority

 Chemical Damage

According to the American Concrete Institute (ACI), which is a leading United States concrete authority that sets many of the guidelines and standards that are used today in the designing, planning, construction and inspection of concrete structures, there are several chemicals, some of which are used in ice melter formulas that actually attack concrete, and are best avoided. They are:

 Freeze/Thaw Cycle Damage

By far the most risk of damage to your concrete during the winter months is attributed to the freeze/thaw cycle. To put this in sample terms, it is the build up of water [melted ice] being absorbed into the porous concrete, which then freezes and expands. This expansion within the concrete causes pressure to build up and eventually this build up will exceed the limit that the concrete was built to withstand. When the pressure becomes too much for the concrete to withstand, scaling generally occurs.

(Scaling is a scabrous condition where the surface mortar has peeled away, exposing the coarse aggregate)

The concrete absorbing the melted ice [water] is a fact of nature and cannot be blamed on the icemeltor used. It can be likened to a sponge absorbing water. However, it should be noted that when you use an ice melter, you will have more melted ice [water], and therefore the potential of more water seeping into the concrete than if you left the ice in its frozen state. Of course, not taking steps to remove the ice on a walkway may put yourself at risk from a liability standpoint, so what is one to do?

As mentioned earlier, the freeze/thaw cycle is a natural process and there is no way of eliminating it. However to reduce the damage caused by this cycle, we strongly recommend that after applying the ice melter and when the ice turns into slush, that the slush be removed from the concrete pavement, sidewalk or driveway to reduce the amount of water that may penetrate the concrete thus reducing the pressure build up.

Another way of reducing the damage caused by the freeze/thaw cycle is to use an ice melter that will keep melted ice in a liquid state for a longer period of time. For example, ice melter containing calcium chloride tends to re-freeze more quickly compared to ice melter containing potassium chloride. By using a potassium chloride product, you extend the time available for more melted ice [water] to drain off your concrete or evaporate, resulting in less water being absorbed by the concrete.
Mortar flaking is another type of scaling and it generally has the same causes as regular scaling. The top layer of concrete will break away from the foundation upon freezing when it is saturated with water.

Another type of damage that can be attributed to the freeze/thaw cycle is a popout. Popouts occur due to internal swelling in the concrete causing small fragments of concrete to break away from the surface. Poputs are usually caused by highly absorbent rocks that are not capable of holding a lot of pressure. When freezing occurs under moist conditions, the rock will swell up and when there is sufficient internal pressure, the rock will break from concrete surface.

(A popout usually leaves a shallow conical depression and is caused by pressure build up within the concrete)

Repair & Prevention

Scaling and Mortar Flaking

Many things can be done to prevent or reduce the risk of this damage occurring. For example, concrete that is properly air-entrained – that is, concrete containing enough small air pockets – will better resist scaling and mortar flaking caused by the freeze/thaw cycle, since these air pockets help to cushion the pressure caused by freezing of the absorbed water. Another example, is to ensure your concrete is of the highest quality and standard. To this end, there are several important points that one should know:

*A high graded and durable concrete mix should be used.

*The concrete is to be properly sloped to ensure that water drains away from the slab.

*Proper finishing practices are also important for the creation of a strong concrete slab.

*The concrete must be cured promptly followed by an air-drying period.

Okay, so if one has experienced freeze/thaw cycle damage, what is one to do?

According to the Portland Cement Association (PCA), another leading concrete authority, that to protect against further freeze/thaw damage a breathable surface treatment may be applied on the concrete. Impermeable materials such as epoxies should not be used because moisture can be trapped in the concrete which could lead to further damage.

Oil treatment such as linseed oil, silane, siloxane, or other materials are recommended. Linseed oil treatment consists of two applicants. Combining equal parts of commercially boiled linseed oil with a solvent such as turpentine or mineral spirits, the recommended coverage for the first application is roughly 40 to 50 sq. yd per gallon [9-11m/liter]. The second application should roughly be 70 sq yd gallon [15m/litre]. To make sure that the oil treatment is successful, the temperature of the concrete at the time of application should be 50°F (10°C) or above. This allows for sufficient drying to take place.

Caution:

The surface may be slippery after the application therefore the surface should be kept clear.

Popouts

There are several ways to minimize or eliminate popouts:

*Use concrete with the proper water-cement ratio.
*Use air-entrained concrete.
*Use a durable crushed-stone in the composition of your concrete.
*Slope the slab surface to ensure proper drainage.
*Reduce concrete temperature to 50°F to 70°F (10°C to 21°C].
*Do not finish concrete with bleed water on the surface.

To repair poputs, one can fill in the patch left behind with a dry-pack mortar, epoxy mortar, or other appropriate patch material. For a surface that has numerous popouts, a thin-bonded concrete overlay may be used to cover up the cosmetic detraction.

 Damaged or New Concrete

It is not recommend that ice melter be used on damaged concrete. Damaged concrete will absorb the water [melted ice] more readily since its ‘seal’ has been broken and therefore can be more susceptible to damage. It is best to reseal or treat your damaged concrete as mentioned earlier, before using any ice melter on it. Further, it is recommended that for concrete less than 12 months old that NO ice melter be used. Newly poured concrete needs time to cure and settle. The application of ice melter on concrete less that 12 months old may weaken the concrete structure making it more susceptible to damage in the future. In order to reduce slipping, falling and liability risks, we suggest applying sand or gravel on the new concrete slab to give it some traction.

 Icemelter on Concrete

As important as it is for one to know the makeup of their concrete, they should also understand how various icemelting products will affect their concrete and its immediate environment. Sodium chloride for example, will attack the metal rebar contained within the concrete when it is soaked up into the concrete and also damages surrounding vegetation, soil structure and ground water. Calcium chloride, which tends to leave an oily residue on your concrete surface, will actually discolor concrete. It does this by accelerating the hydration process, while having a retarding effect on hydration of the ferrite compound in Portland Cement. Magnesium chloride, ammonium nitrate and ammonium sulfate attack and disintegrate concrete and should be strictly avoided.

On the other hand, urea will not chemically damage concrete, however it contains nitrogen, which breaks down to ammonia and is quite toxic to aquatic life. A great choice to consider for your concrete, is a fertilizer based ice melter, such as XYNYTH Manufacturing’s Mountain Organic Natural ice melter ä, which is potassium based. It actually reduces the change of damage to surfaces by preventing refreezing of the melted ice longer than other ice melters and by leaving no residue behind. It is also good for the vegetation and safe on the eco-systems.

This bulletin provides a general guideline on the causes of concrete damage and ways to repair and prevent them. For more detailed information, please consult your local icemelt distributor, the American Concrete Institute (ACI), the Portland Cement Association (PCA).

Roof and gutter heating systems protect your roof throughout winter by keeping roof gutters and drainpipes safe from dangerous icicles, frost erosion and heavy loads of snow and ice. The damaging effects of roof ice and snow can be seen on many older structures in our communities.  The homes were not designed to withstand the extreme weight from snow and ice accumulation, and can lead to water entering your home. This can eventually lead to unsafe conditions and cause your home to become structurally unsound.  Flat roofs on homes are especially susceptible to snow and ice damage, which is why radiant roof heating is a common solution for many residential properties.

Installing a quality heated gutter deicing system eliminates potential damage from snow and ice buildup on your home. Here at Blooming Idiot Lawn Care we specialize in solving your snow removal and ice solutions.

We offer several solution based on your budget.

Salt Melt Block is Applied Prior to Storm and Snow Fall.	Basic Heat Cable With Manual Control System.	Fully Automated System With Moisture Control Switch.

The soil type on your property is an important factor in determining how fast and how often water can be applied to the plant material.

Soil type
Soil absorbs and holds water in much the same way as a sponge. A given texture and volume of soil will hold a given amount of moisture. The intake rate of the soil will influence the precipitation rate and type of sprinkler that can be used. The ability of soil to hold moisture, and the amount of moisture it can hold, will greatly affect the irrigation schedule.

Soil is made up of sand, silt and clay particles. The percentage of each of these three particles is what determines the actual soil texture. Because the percentage of any one of these three particles can differ, there is virtually an unlimited number of soil types possible.

The simplest way to determine the soil type is to place a moistened soil sample in your hand and squeeze. Take the sample from a representative part of the site, and from approximately the same depth to which you will be watering. In other words, if you want to water to a depth of 6 in (15 cm), dig down 6 in (15 cm) to take your soil sample.

The Jar Test

A more accurate way to determine the amount of sand, silt and clay in your soil is to conduct the jar test.

1. Remove 1 to 2 cups of soil from the zone to be irrigated.

2. Place into a glass jar, like a mason jar.

3. Fill the jar half way with water. Shake and let sit for 2 hours so the particles can settle. The heavier sand particles will settle to the bottom, then silt, then clay on top.

4. Measure the height of all 3 layers of the soil then the height of each layer; divide the height of each layer by the total height to figure out the percentage of each soil in the jar.

5. Apply these figures to the “Soil Classification” chart. In the example, now you know the landscape soil is silt loam.

One of the most significant differences between different soil types is the way in which they absorb and hold water. Capillary action is the primary force in spreading water horizontally through the soil. Both gravity and capillary action influence vertical movement of water. In coarser soils, water is more likely to be absorbed vertically, but will not spread very far horizontally. The opposite is true for finer soils.

The table below lists the general characteristics of the three main soil types.

Look particularly at the information in the last three columns. The soil’s intake rate, or how fast it absorbs water, dictates how quickly water can be applied by the irrigation system. Coarse, sandy soil absorbs water very quickly while silts and clays have a very low intake rate. The fine textured soils, once wet, retain moisture longer than do the coarse grained soils. The main problem we wish to avoid is applying water faster than the soil can receive it. This causes runoff, erosion or soil puddling, all of which waste water and can cause damage.

Rolling terrain further complicates the problem of matching the application rate from the sprinklers with the intake rate of the soil. As the angle of slope increases, the intake rate decreases because of the higher potential for runoff.

Use these 10 tips to increase your home’s curb appeal and find out how an attractive and well-maintained landscape can add as much as 10 percent to its value.

Potential home buyers form their first impression of a home from its curb appeal. Yet often a home’s outdoor landscaping is overlooked, or underdone, in the preparation for the sales process. An attractive and well-maintained landscape can add as much as 10 percent to the value of your home.

Ideally the time to get started cleaning up your yard is about a month before you plan on showing your house. That should give you enough time to get everything looking just right and not leave the impression that you simply waited until the last minute to put things in order. Follow these tips for sprucing up your yard to help your home sell quickly.

Spruce up outdoor containers. Container plants, especially large tropicals, add considerable interest to patios and doorways where would-be buyers enter and exit the house. Such displays also demonstrate the endless possibilities for designing with container plants.

Touch up the mulch. Nothing spruces up a place like a new application of mulch, so apply a fresh layer in all your garden beds. The color enhances the contrast of the surrounding plants and makes everything pop. What’s more, mulch is relatively cheap and easy to apply.

Plant some instant color. Seasonal color makes the landscape pop as well, and flats of annuals are also relatively inexpensive. Go for a splash of several colors or a more monochromatic scheme, whatever fits in with the look of your home.

Shape unsightly or overgrown trees and shrubs. Regardless of the season, it’s a good idea to tackle any overlooked pruning chores because nothing says neglect like a bunch of dead branches. The idea is to show how well not only your house but your garden has been maintained. It’s okay to prune deciduous trees and shrubs any time of the year.

Tend to perennial beds. Tidy up herbaceous plants, such as annuals and perennials, that don’t look as good as they should. If a plant is in such bad shape that it needs to be removed, either replace it or stick a decorative pot in its place.

Now is also a good time to dig up any plants that you want to take with you to your new home. If you intend to remove any landscape plants and haven’t already done so, you have an obligation to inform the buyer exactly which plants you plan on digging up. That’s only fair, and in many states there are restrictions on removing plants from the landscape.

Landscape Inspections can save you big money when buying a new home.

There is no “landscape inspector” heading in any directory, but a licensed landscape contractor with broad experience should be able to help you. It will take an hour or two, depending on the size of the lot. Accompany them and learn about the land that will soon be yours to maintain. Most homes in arid areas of the Colorado have an irrigation system and you’ll want to know if it’s functioning before you buy. Blooming Idiot Lawn Care does a number of pre-purchase inspections each year and has discovered all types of irrigation system problems. Emitters grown into trees are common and a minor repair cost; irrigation lines crushed by tree growth or valves engulfed by tree roots can get costly to correct.

Knowing the soil also is important. Sandy soils drain quickly and you’ll have higher water bills if you want a lush landscape. Clay soils resist water penetration. A heavy rain may form a lake in the yard for hours or days, if drainage is poor. Drainage should be a major concern for homebuyers, In addition to flooding problems, poor drainage can easily lead to cracked foundations. If there are drainage issues, the buyers can insist that the sellers fix the problem.

How fresh is the mulch? Below the mulch there should be a plastic or a polyfiber liner installed to keep weed seeds in the underlying soil from sprouting. It’s also supposed to keep weed seeds that blow in from getting enough moisture to germinate. A liner works for three to seven years before it needs replacing. If the landscape has rock mulch, it needs checking. Any type of mulch will need routine maintenance. Rock mulch just needs it less often. But when it needs maintenance, rock mulch is very expensive due to the labor involved with such a cumbersome material.

Water features warrant investigation. Do fountains hold water? Do pumps and lights work? Are electric components installed correctly? Such high voltage electrical features in the yard should be done by the home inspector.

Landscape lighting is a low voltage system and may fall to the landscape contractor to inspect. All lights should be operational. The transformer should operate silently.

Take a moment to size up the trees – are they healthy? Are their roots starting to disturb sidewalks or foundations? Recent extreme pruning can indicate potential problems.

Are the plants the type of species you can live with? Are they messy? Plants with allergenic pollen may need removal.

Save yourself future headaches, heartaches and potentially a great deal of money – inspect the landscape before you buy a home.

If you are interested in getting a landscape inspection before buying a home, please give us a call. 303-586-1858